Weaving a plaited basket

It is quite unnecessary to describe one basket after another in the weaving art world, for they are so much alike that after one has made a few simple shapes he or she is able to copy anything that they may see, or to invent new designs for themselves.

The Haida word for these simple plaited baskets is k'áaduu, or small basket made from thick strips of cedar bark. This article will focus on using the cedar bark cut into various widths, but any kind of wide material can be used such as a five strand braid, or other kinds of tree bark, cattails, even wood splints. The method of construction used in these baskets is similar to the spider weaving exercise. Both present the question of whether or not to weave with an even or odd number of warps. If you decide to choose an odd number of warps, your weft can be one long continuous spiral around the basket. If you choose to use an even number of warps, each row of weft lies on top of the other. When finishing the edge of an odd number of warps, care has to be taken to make sure the edge is even and not sloped to one side, which can be remedied with lots of practice.

Plaited baskets are woven with a flat, square or rectangular basket. Both the spider and plaited baskets have warps and weavers. The weavers go over and under the warps, both when plaiting and twining.

Take 4 strips of cedar bark cut to 1/4" width. These strips will be your starting warps. When determining the length of these strips, be sure to include 1 or 2 inches extra length on each side of the basket for pulling and tucking. If you wish to make a 3" basket like the one shown in the picture above, measure your warps 3" for one side + 3" for the base + 3" for the other side + 3" for pull and tuck = 12" or a foot. Start by interweaving the centers of these four strips.

Continuing adding warps, keeping the ends sorta even, the weaving part centered, with the long warps in one direction and the short in the other if you are making a rectangular basket. Weave the warps over and under, making a plain weave pattern. As you weave, keep the warps at right angles, or perpendicular to each other and watch to see that the gaps at the crossovers are square or non-existent.

If you are using a mold, plastic square, or wooden block, to weave around, place it in the center of your weave and check to see if you have enough warps to evenly cover the base of the block. To keep your base together temporarily, use cloths-pins in the corners to keep your warps from moving around. At this point you can decide whether or not to twine the edge of your basket base with a thin weaver. This will be helpful too in keeping the base from shifting as you work with it, and for decorative appeal.

After the base is woven, bend the warps which will become the sides of the basket, using a flat ruler on the edge of the basket base, and bending the warps up at a right angle. If your bark is getting a little dry, dampen it with a water spray or dip it a pail of water and soak a minute.

Since this basket we are making has a even number of warps, you will begin and end a weaver on each row and overlap the ends across 3 or 4 warps. If this basket had an odd number of warps, you could spiral the rows with one long weaver.

Because this basket has an even number of warps, each row is separate from the previous row. When adding new rows, place the overlaps of the ends of the weavers on different sides of the basket. This will keep the basket strong and avoids bulkiness showing up on one side of the basket. End each row with the weavers ends hidden behind a warp. Every couple of rows or so, stop and awl each row down so that it is snug with the previous row, eliminating any gaps.

To finish the edge of your basket, tuck all the rows, and cut the ends of the warps if you like to a point or a slant so that they will be easier to weave back into the basket. If you feel the bark getting a little dry, and cracking, soak the basket for a few minutes upside down to wet the rim and warp ends. Tuck the pointed warps back under the first 2 or 3 rows of weavers into the basket using a awl to help lift the rows. Pull the warp down and through, so the the fold is snug against the top weaver row and cut off any excess below the 2 or 3 row. Pull and tuck down all warps evenly to make a nice rim. Optionally a handle can be added using a braided strand.

Video on Ending the basket edge or rim

How to Weave a "Spider"

Many times, when I started out weaving, was to learn how to twine. Not sure where to start, I looked for a teacher, and in 2005 I learned how to twine with cedar bark.

Much later, through demonstrating my artwork, and sharing my weaving methods, the "Spider" has been a teaching aid for beginner weavers who want to learn how to make firm, durable, practical baskets.

Everything you need to know about weaving or twining a basket, you learn from the "Spider." How to start the beginning weavers and warps, how to twine with two weavers, inserting new warps, and finishing the borders. I recommend making at least 30 or so of these "Spider’s" before the beginner will feel comfortable with the material, its strength, flexibility, and tension.

Starting a basket base or Spider

Often the mistake is made by not using enough warps to make the work firm and durable, and unnecessarily lumpy. And a close border cannot be made in a satisfactory manner if the warps are too far apart.

Start by cutting 7 or 8 pieces of either cedar bark (1/8th inch wide) or split english ivy vines. Overlay 3 warps over 4 warps. Loop your weaver or weft around the 3 warps on the left, with one weaver going under the four warps, and the other weaver going over the 4 warps. Continue with the weaver (over the 4 warps) and go under the 3 warps, with the other weaver, going over the 3 warps. Continue with the over and under to finish the row.

Care must be taken that the warps are evenly separated by the time the third or fourth row is twined, so that warps come out in a straight line from the center.

Beginners often find it difficult to make a basket that will stand straight and not tip to one side. No matter how careful one has been to make the bottom flat, it will bulge some in the center. To avoid this, the weavers should not be drawn too tight, as the "spider" or basket base, must be kept flat. Weaving on a table top or cutting board and this can be easily managed. While weaving with the weaver, place the thumb on the center, and pull on weaver tight enough, but not too tight, for an even strong twine.

After the second row of twining, you can start separating the warps and twine each individually. Careful to keep the warps evenly spaced. If your current row of twining has a gap from the previous row, use an awl or chop stick to press the rows together. Hold onto the warps as you do this.

It will be necessary to hold down the end of one weaver, to prevent it slipping, until the other weaver is passed over it, which binds the previous weaver firmly into place.  Traditionally Haida weavers start on the left and work the weavers to the right. So, your mantra for twining is: taking the weaver on the left, passing it over the warp your holding and under the succeeding warp. Let go of the warp you twined over and hold on the succeeding warp. Repeat the mantra until you are ready for the border and the "Spider" is almost finished.

If an extremely long weaver is used, it will make a nice small "spider" with any splicing or inserting of weavers. When inserting a weaver, make sure the old weavers overlay the new weavers for 4 or more twinings before being trimmed or cut off or tucked in.

To add a border to your "spider", make sure the weavers are long enough to complete another row or two of twining. If not insert a new weaver. The warps should be of uniform length. Cutting the ends to a point will help pushing them down between the weavers. Leave the first loop open, until the whole edge is complete. There are many borders to choose from, but for now learning one is enough, and give you a good idea how other borders are finished. Reading is a good resource, and have many creative finishing edges to pick from.

And now you have a finished "Spider". Making 30 of these is good practice, and will help you remember beginning the base, and adding borders. Twining is the easy part, so in a spider there is less twining, and more learning how to start and end. Spider’s are also useful items when completed, and can be used as coffee mug coasters, small pendants, or two sewn together to form a small pouch, etc... have fun weaving.

How to Braid a Headband

braided flag iris leaves

There are so many ways in which braids can be used, mats, baskets, hats and many more. And there are a wide variety of plants that can be braided, including grasses, like dune grass, bear grass, bark from vines including black berry, flag iris leaves, cattail leaves, tree bark such as cedar, hemlock and the list is endless... why use commercial raffia when the outdoors provides plenty of resources... explore.

Four Strands -- Beginners often tie the start of the braid to a chair to help with making an even width braid. Take two strands, one in each hand, cross the one in the right hand over to the one in the left near the center, but so that four ends will be uneven. This will stop the necessity of splicing or joining all the strands in the same place.

Bring the lower left-hand strand in front and cross over the lower right-hand strand. Bring the one that is now the upper left-hand strand down under the lower left-hand strand, and hold these in place with the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand. Now bring the upper right hand strand down over the lower right-hand strand and cross under the lower left hand strand.

4 strand

If the following mantra is kept in mind, it will be an easy thing to make the braid even and smooth. "Under with the left, over with right, and cross in the center."

Eventually as you braid, you will need to insert new strands. Bring the strand that is to be spliced to the lower right-hand place. Insert the new strand beside it, allowing the large end to extend an inch or so under the upper left-hand strand.

Five strands are the least number with which a satisfactory braid can be made. There is no way of concealing the ends when three strands are used, and it is more difficult to make an even braid.

In beginning a five strand braid, tie the five strands together at one end. I find it useful to separate three strands in the one hand and two in the other hand. Starting with the right hand that has 3 strands take the outer strand, fold it towards you and weave in across the next strand and under the middle strand, bring it to the left.

Now the left has three strands and the right has two. Repeat from the left, taking the outer strand and over the next strand, under the middle strand, bringing it to the right.

Repeat this until you have to join in another strand. Braiding is repetitious, even after joining more strands which allow for a long continuous braid.

Pull out the bottoms of the strands as you braid to keep them from tangling. It is also useful if braiding long strands to bundle the strands individually and unravel them as you braid to prevent tangling.

Joining or splicing -- As you continue your work, you will need to insert new strands as the other strands become too short to braid. At first you may not get it right, making the braid too wide. Instead lay the insert on top of the shortened strand and treat it as one piece. After braiding an inch or so, you can cut off the ends sticking out close up to the braid.

Braiding a Basket

Make a braid about three quarters of an inch wide; coil and sew together as in making a mat, keeping the braid flat for the bottom of the basket, which is two and a half inches in diameter. Shape the sides by holding the braid upward and outward while sewing. Three or four rows complete this basket.

Braiding a Hat

Make an even braid about 3/8ths of an inch wide; coil and sew with the edges together. When the measures three inches across begin to shape the sides of the crown. For this the braid must now be held down and a trifle in and drawn tight while sewing. Three or four rows should make the crown sufficiently high. Five or six rows sewed together like the top of the crown makes the flat brim. Finish at the back of the hat by tapering the end, secure it under a braid and sew firmly in place. Trim and decorate the hat with a colored braid or other plant material.

Step by Step with photos

Here are some photos demonstrating how to braid with cedar bark 1/2" width strips

Weaving Methods

There are four basic construction techniques or skills for weaving different items that I use. They are twining, twill or braiding, coiling and knotting. From these four types many designs and shapes can be made.

Twining is the earliest known method of weaving. This technique involves two or more weavers or wefts are twined around a warp (over and under) and not necessarily twisted. This technique is also called pairing of two weavers and wailing when three or more weavers are used. The diagram shows the technique starting on the left working over the warps to the right, a traditional Haida technique.

Twill is also referred to as the checkerboard weave or Salish weave. Where warps and wefts when woven together form a checkerboard pattern. The technique also allows for variation in that the weft can be woven over two warps or more, for patterns and designs, and not restricted to the single over and under checkerboard design. Warps can be envisioned as the skeleton of a basket and the weft or weaver as the skin.

Braiding much like the twill, consists of 3 or more strands (up to 13 or more if you like thick braids), plaited or twilled together. That is each strand is folded crosses over the others to form a flat wide plait of any length. Braids are useful as a substitute for a wide weft on a basket for example or for coiling.

In coiling, a bundle of strands or a twisted strand is stitched together into a spiraling, round or oval form with a thin, flexible weaver. It is a simple straight forward technique, that makes a firm and rigid basket in a relatively short period of time. There are several different types of coiling, including wrapping and the use of braids.

Knotting and Cordage. Rope or twine is made by twisting two or more strands of fiber in the same direction, which in turn, twists the strands together forming a single strand of twine. These lengths of twined fiber can then be knotted in various ways. Macrame is a common form of knotting.