tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-12965807595619280822024-03-12T17:00:59.755-07:00Giihlgiigaa - Haida WeaverGiihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-60846819936149708082021-02-09T13:25:00.001-08:002021-02-09T13:25:56.079-08:00Dying Cedar Bark<div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lw37dN3rSPs/YCLtPb7GNJI/AAAAAAAABBs/KUi7Gc_NCiQR5H_l2EGNVP-DVwCXCi3IwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/Dying%2BCedar%2BBark%2Boutside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1228" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lw37dN3rSPs/YCLtPb7GNJI/AAAAAAAABBs/KUi7Gc_NCiQR5H_l2EGNVP-DVwCXCi3IwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Dying%2BCedar%2BBark%2Boutside.jpg" /></a></div><b>My Red Dye bath. </b><br /><br />In this picture on the left, I am set up outside to dye cedar bark. With a large Stove pot, and an electric element to keep the dye bath Hot.</div><div><br /></div><div>Dying cedar bark into various colours, has been done since antiquity. Traditionally, natural dye's were used, such as the red Alder for red, and old man's beard for yellow, etc.</div><div><br /><b>Dye</b></div><div>In this workshop I am using TinTex fabric dye, that can be purchased, at just about any Grocery or Dollar Store for about a dollar or two. It is a chemical fabric dye, but the process of dying whether using natural or synthetic dyes is much the same. Tintex and Rit are both septic friendly.</div><div><br /><b>Mordant</b></div><div>Alum or Aluminum Potassium Sulphate will be used for the mordant. The mordant allows for the color to stick to the cedar bark. It is available as a spice, although expensive. Here in Vancouver you can mail-order it also online from Maiwa or <a href="https://maiwa.com/collections/alum">https://maiwa.com/collections/alum</a> or get it from the store. Much cheaper. Good for berry dyes too, like salal berry, etc.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Cedar Bark</b><br />We will be dying cedar bark, but the process is similar to dying other fibers. Cut and prepare your bark well in advance, and best to use when near dried. The dry bark will soak up the water and Alum that has been dissolved in the water, which will hold the color.</div><div><br /></div><b>Materials per person</b><br />
- 2 oz of cut cedar bark 1/8” or 1/4” wide <br />
- 32g of Alum<br />
- 32g of Tintex Red or Rit Black Fabric Dye<br />
- 1, Quart Canning Jar (1 litre)<br />
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Additional Tools.</b><br />
- kettle of boiling water<br />
- cloth dish towels<br />
- tongs or wooden spoon<br />
- sink with running water<div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><div><div><b>To Begin</b><br />Make sure the Quart Canning Jar is free from cracks and is clean. No need to sterilize, but it does need to be clean. The jar you use for red dying, can be reused for the same color. Label each jar with the dye color it will be used for. Use only red dye in the red dye labelled jar.</div><div><br /></div><div>Wear Gloves. Add in the jar, first add in the alum salt, the fabric dye powder and then the cut & prepared strips of inner cedar bark.</div><div><br /></div><div>Next boil some water and pour into jar over the cedar bark. add enough water to cover the cedar bark. If bark starts to float add a little more water, until you can push the bark under (use a wooden spoon).</div><div><br /></div></div><div>Put on window sill and agitate bath every 5-10 minutes, for about 30 minutes and then remove bark from red dye bath.</div><div><br /></div><div>Put in bucket or sink and rinse with cold water. </div><div><br /></div><div>Let drip dry for an hour and then begin to bundle and dry completely. </div><div><br /></div><div>Dye bath can be reused. More alum may be needed for subsequent batches (about 1 teaspoon).</div><div><br /></div><div><b>Notes:</b></div>
- Wear gloves to avoid dying your skin too<br />- Do not leave bark wet in plastic bag<br />
- Always dry your bark over night.<br />
<br /></div>G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-71597155179066926912021-01-20T12:10:00.008-08:002022-08-19T11:10:37.258-07:00The Woven Cedar Bark Heart<p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">How to weave a cedar bark heart.</span></b></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;">Hearts are common now-a-days, and although not a traditional symbol among first-nations in the past, they are becoming more and more frequently seen around February along with cedar roses and the like.</span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oZlBAkpo3Ts/YAiL6eOO1GI/AAAAAAAABBI/_xNFaPFNPIQofadBcM3KXYF1ZPuXm-1QgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20201126_083548.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oZlBAkpo3Ts/YAiL6eOO1GI/AAAAAAAABBI/_xNFaPFNPIQofadBcM3KXYF1ZPuXm-1QgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20201126_083548.jpg" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Objective:</span></b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;">This project is a practical introduction to cedar bark weaving for anyone with no weaving experience. Participants will also be able to understand some of the basic vocabulary of weaving.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;">• Weaving - The process of forming a basket, or similar object, by interlacing strands of bark.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;">• Strand - a weaver with no warp. Several strands can be twisted together to make rope.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;">• Warp - also known as spokes, or the skeleton of the basket.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;">• Weft - a length of material which interlaces warps. Also used for lashing.</span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><span style="font-size: medium;">• Twining - the oldest of all weaving techniques, employing two or more wefts that intertwine each other between warps.</span></div></div></div><span style="font-size: medium;">• Checkerboard twill - where the wefts and warps are both flat and of similar strength that appears to look like a checkerboard at its plainest.<br /></span><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Difficulty Level:</b> Easy<br /><b>Approximate Workshop Time Period</b>: 45 - 60 minutes a period.</span></p><h2 style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Things You'll Need:</span></b></h2><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Materials per person</b><br />- 8 to 10 strips of cedar bark 1/2" wide by 10" long</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Tools:</b><br />- scissors<br />- rulers<br />- buckets of water<br />- cloth towels</span></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Notes:</b><br />- Soak cedar bark 15 minutes prior to class<br />- dried out bark breaks and frays, keep wet<br />- Do not leave bark wet in plastic bag<br />- Always dry your heart & bark overnight</span></p><p><b><span style="font-size: medium;">Detailed instructions and Video coming soon.</span></b></p><p></p><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><span style="font-size: medium;"><br /></span><p></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: medium;"><b>Extended Lesson<br /></b>This project can be expanded to challenge the creativity of the participants, by making smaller versions for earrings, larger versions for a heart pouch, and so on. </span></p>G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-55594758317460833752021-01-11T17:54:00.008-08:002021-01-16T13:57:50.376-08:00How to Make a Cedar Bark Rope Bracelet<p><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bma0jQ11LpQ/X_z87Cy7fjI/AAAAAAAAA_E/dE8kUZneS3ks-djfbpwy5uyOOA2BaQbzACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Friendship%2BBracelet%2B1h%2BS5.JPG" style="clear: right; display: inline; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bma0jQ11LpQ/X_z87Cy7fjI/AAAAAAAAA_E/dE8kUZneS3ks-djfbpwy5uyOOA2BaQbzACLcBGAsYHQ/w200-h200/Friendship%2BBracelet%2B1h%2BS5.JPG" width="200" /></a> Rope is one of the first technologies given to humans. Human's could make rope before they knew how to do pottery, invented the wheel, smelted iron. Weaving is a skill, gifted to humans, long before any other technology.</p><p>During the activity, the history and preparing of the cedar bark used will be discussed. Making a simple rope should make it much clearer and enable people to understand how important making rope is.</p><p>A common question: What is rope used for? Camping, clothes lines, fishing nets, basket ball hoops, jump rope, and many more including friendship bracelets.<br /></p><p><b>Objective:<br /></b>This project is a practical introduction to cedar bark weaving for anyone with no weaving experience. Participants will also be able to understand the basic vocabulary of weaving.</p><p style="text-align: left;">• Weaving — The process of forming a basket, or in this project, a rope bracelet by interlacing strands of bark.<br />• Strand — a weaver with no warp. Several strands can be twisted together to make rope.</p><p><br /><b>Difficulty Level</b>: Easy<br /><b>Approximate Workshop Time Period</b>: 45 - 60 minutes a period.<br /><span><br /><br /><b style="font-size: large;">Things You'll Need:</b></span></p><p><b>Materials per person</b><br />- a 3 foot by 1/4” wide strip of cedar bark<br />- a Devil's Club bead</p><p><b>Tools: </b><br />- scissors<br />- rulers<br />- buckets of water<br />- cloth towels</p><b>Notes:</b><br />- Soak cedar bark 15 minutes prior to class<br />- dried out bark breaks and frays, keep wet<br />- Do not leave bark wet in plastic bag<br />- Always dry your bracelet & bark overnight<p></p><p><b>What you will learn in this project<br /></b>How to twist cedar bark into twine or rope for use in various projects including a friendship bracelet. Cedar bark rope is made by rolling or twisting two strands (or one folded in half) in one direction causing twisted strands to ply together. Stones or clothes pins tied at end of bark strands aid in repeatedly twisting strands.</p><p>Step One:<br />Both Strands are twisted separately to the left (or both to the right, describe the z twist and s twist)</p><p>Step Two:<br />New strands are added in by laying in new strand behind short strand, and both are twisted together as one... rope making then continued... Cut off tags when rope is finished.</p><p><b>Overhand Knot<br /></b>To make the overhand knot at the end of your twisted rope: first make a turn and then insert the end through the turn as pictured.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dzyHC52aKW8/X_z-LY5gFdI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/k0ZtsUOH60oEFapr8iALzyxkCnPfuYVwACLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="118" data-original-width="227" height="166" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dzyHC52aKW8/X_z-LY5gFdI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/k0ZtsUOH60oEFapr8iALzyxkCnPfuYVwACLcBGAsYHQ/w320-h166/image.png" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><b>Devil's Club Bead<br /></b>Harvested around the same time as Cedar Bark, Devil Club is also called Wild Ginger in Alaska. And the inner (green) bark used for various medicinal purposes. What's left over is the stem cut to various lengths, which has a pith can that be hollowed out and used as a bead.</p><p><b>Extended Lesson<br /></b>This project can be expanded to challenge the creativity of the participants, by extending the length of the rope by inserting or adding in more strands. A longer length can be used as a necklace, or several lengths can be braided together to make a belt. If you're really motivated, the rope can be used to make a fishing net or basketball hoop. Learning how to tie different knots using the rope you made is also a valuable learning exercise. Try also making a three strand or three ply rope.</p>G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-22887991237027212332019-01-05T21:34:00.000-08:002019-01-05T21:45:55.689-08:00Preparing your Bark for WeavingCedar bark, there is so much history found in its uses. This video demonstrates a quick, easy method to prepare your bark for weaving. Today we use a leather cutting tool, called the Table Top Leather Lace Cutter, or a Jerry Stripper.<br />
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After soaking the raw cedar bark strip for 3 hours or so, cut into 1 inch width strips.<br />
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Then split bark into two lengths, before cutting again into 1/8" , 1/4" , or 1/2" inch strips.<br />
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Dry cut strips, by bundling into small rolls for later weaving if not used all at once.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2PvF2NjNyb4?" width="459"></iframe>G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-26668232666891251432019-01-05T19:43:00.002-08:002019-01-05T19:44:04.378-08:00How to weave Reindeer OrnamentsAt the end of October, and Starting in November, is the time many people start weaving ornaments for the Winter Ceremonies. This small project is a great gift and fund raiser for the season.<br />
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Start with 2 pieces of 1/4" width cedar bark - 16" long, and 3 pieces (for the legs and tail) 10" short.<br />
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Essentially you are braiding, starting with the tail.<br />
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Starts out as a 7 strand braid for the body, a 5 strand for the neck, 3 strand for the head, and 4 strand for the antlers.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oHyGCY4yTAU?" width="459"></iframe>G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-36693535570847051312019-01-05T12:54:00.003-08:002019-01-05T12:55:01.952-08:00Ending a HatThere are various ways to end a hat, of them is in the inside, to "hide" the seam, and make the edge look seamless.<br />
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This video shows how to end a hat from the inside. Finishing on the outside or top side of the hat is similar. The first warp that you fold over should be looped so that you can weave the wefts through it at the end of the row.<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/%C2%A0https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCA0E2YopQc"> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCA0E2YopQc</a>G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-26528005499168073482019-01-05T12:36:00.000-08:002019-01-05T12:43:21.289-08:00Extending/Inserting Wefts and WarpsThroughout weaving your project, whether it be a hat or basket, you will need to insert or add in, some say extend, the wefts or warps which seems to be getting shorter.<br />
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Overlapping the elements (either warp or weft) takes a little patience, and over time with practice, your joining will look seamless.<br />
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<b>Inserting a Warp</b><br />
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While Twinning a small hat, this video demonstrates a way to add in a warp.<br />
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<b>Inserting/Extending a Weft</b><br />
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As you are twinning, you may need to insert a weft here or there. In this video I demonstrate how to insert a short weft or a long weft.<br />
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G̱iihlgiigaa Tsiit git’aneehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00379472591437580370noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-38218426913528339042017-05-13T17:09:00.000-07:002017-05-13T17:09:29.021-07:00Accessories<table cols="3" style="width: 100%px;"><tbody>
<tr> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-63bcRZtOYSY/TOqt5vTBOhI/AAAAAAAAABU/eXu8PjBKQ3E/s1600/DSC00042.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-63bcRZtOYSY/TOqt5vTBOhI/AAAAAAAAABU/eXu8PjBKQ3E/s200/DSC00042.jpg" width="200" /></a></td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jx0N7WrTxmg/TqY3_3JcL9I/AAAAAAAAAU8/MJ3j1cfWVQo/s1600/5981325687_ee37e92bb1_z.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jx0N7WrTxmg/TqY3_3JcL9I/AAAAAAAAAU8/MJ3j1cfWVQo/s200/5981325687_ee37e92bb1_z.jpg" width="145" /></a><br />
Cedar Bark Bracelets</td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cTcBh6woY54/TqY4GgqL-MI/AAAAAAAAAVs/bR10qwk44o4/s1600/DSC00261.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cTcBh6woY54/TqY4GgqL-MI/AAAAAAAAAVs/bR10qwk44o4/s200/DSC00261.jpg" width="200" /></a></td> </tr>
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The Cedar Bark Bracelet is the most popular workshop and also an introduction project for beginners who want to learn a little bit about weaving and peoples connection to the cedar tree. Each workshop includes all tools needed and enough cedar bark for everyone to make one or two bracelets. Buttons are an optional extra and can be made of shells. Another small project is the friendship cordage bracelet which takes less time to assemble.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCyCO_aQqwc/WRc3hvEavWI/AAAAAAAAAjk/QJKzHitpwk8G1qQuL3Y_wFXgEzuk0dQuQCPcB/s1600/Friendship%2BCordage%2BBracelet%2B1hr%2BS5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCyCO_aQqwc/WRc3hvEavWI/AAAAAAAAAjk/QJKzHitpwk8G1qQuL3Y_wFXgEzuk0dQuQCPcB/s200/Friendship%2BCordage%2BBracelet%2B1hr%2BS5.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Friendship Bracelet</td></tr>
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<br />Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-43223810784903538722017-05-13T17:05:00.000-07:002017-05-13T17:05:10.795-07:00Cedar Bark Hats<table cols="3" style="width: 100%px;"><tbody>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-eSCRIymGo/TqwaxilkAaI/AAAAAAAAAX4/XrA5jD3xnW0/s1600/DSC00009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M-eSCRIymGo/TqwaxilkAaI/AAAAAAAAAX4/XrA5jD3xnW0/s200/DSC00009.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a><br />
<b>Traditional Haida Hat</b><br />
15" or 17" Brim circumference<br />
- fine twilled weave<br />
- custom headband fit<br />
- no design or patterns</td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jr40Trw53-I/Tqwa1qxA6cI/AAAAAAAAAYI/6-52d0AAIoQ/s1600/Photo+64.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Jr40Trw53-I/Tqwa1qxA6cI/AAAAAAAAAYI/6-52d0AAIoQ/s200/Photo+64.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a><br />
<b>Squamish Hat</b><br />
- fine twilled weave<br />
- also available with<br />
chaser twill weave</td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BlcN3MT-Y4A/TRhnJdtpNfI/AAAAAAAAABk/whNeQIZLc3U/s1600/DSC00517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BlcN3MT-Y4A/TRhnJdtpNfI/AAAAAAAAABk/whNeQIZLc3U/s200/DSC00517.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="200" /></a><br />
<b>Boaters Style Cedar Bark hat</b><br />
- available in sizes<br />
medium, large & xlarge<br />
- fine twilled weave<br />
- also available with chaser twill</td> </tr>
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All hats are available for individual purchase made to order (not in stock). <br />
Please <a href="http://ithkilgaa.blogspot.ca/p/commission-art.html">email me</a> for prices and additional info.</div>
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<b>Fedora Hats</b></div>
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- sizes 22.5", 23", 23.5"</div>
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- fine twine weave</div>
Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-512059397213111122013-03-25T13:36:00.001-07:002017-05-13T10:25:03.570-07:00How to harvest Cedar Bark<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /><iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/7-4cuDrYgi0/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/7-4cuDrYgi0?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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How to Harvest Cedar Bark video tutorial</div>
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During the Spring/summer of 2012, a group of urban weavers headed out to Squamish Country to harvest some cedar bark with Haida weaver Todd DeVries, demonstrating.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">inner bark</td></tr>
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Gathering Cedar Bark illustrations by Hilary Stewart in "Cedar: The tree of life"</div>
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<br />Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-89503941606636455452013-02-14T16:59:00.002-08:002013-04-23T15:09:52.428-07:00Table Wares<table cols="3" style="width: 100%px;"><tbody>
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Coffee Mug Coasters</td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-znD99dsd224/TzNglU2NSJI/AAAAAAAAArc/fv-aWstjQ1s/s1600/DSC01204.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-znD99dsd224/TzNglU2NSJI/AAAAAAAAArc/fv-aWstjQ1s/s200/DSC01204.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
Open Weave Table Mat</td> <td align="center" valign="top" width="33%"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HE7_giKW8uk/TqY4qrSwG_I/AAAAAAAAAW0/4le45UFFas0/s1600/DSC00614.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HE7_giKW8uk/TqY4qrSwG_I/AAAAAAAAAW0/4le45UFFas0/s200/DSC00614.jpg" width="200" /></a><br />
Napkin Rings</td> </tr>
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Tableware’s are all custom made from 100% Western Red Cedar harvest in BC, Canada and available for individual purchase by commissioned order.<br />
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Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-30616142200668340322013-02-14T16:41:00.001-08:002013-02-14T17:25:14.545-08:00Basketry<table cols="3"><tbody>
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Square Plaited Basket</div>
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ChaserWeave Berry Basket</div>
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Potlatch Gift Baskets</div>
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All Baskets are handmade from 100% cedar bark harvested in BC, Canada. Occasionally I have some already made, and can post additional pictures, per request. Happy to make to measure too.<br />
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Berry & Gift Baskets</div>
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Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-46983025066001835932012-02-18T08:52:00.001-08:002021-02-03T16:32:25.553-08:00Weaving a plaited basket<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It is quite unnecessary to describe one basket after another in the weaving art world, for they are so much alike that after one has made a few simple shapes he or she is able to copy anything that they may see, or to invent new designs for themselves.<br />
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The Haida word for these simple plaited baskets is <u>k</u>'áaduu, or small basket made from thick strips of cedar bark. This article will focus on using the cedar bark cut into various widths, but any kind of wide material can be used such as a five strand braid, or other kinds of tree bark, cattails, even wood splints. The method of construction used in these baskets is similar to the spider weaving exercise. Both present the question of whether or not to weave with an even or odd number of warps. If you decide to choose an odd number of warps, your weft can be one long continuous spiral around the basket. If you choose to use an even number of warps, each row of weft lies on top of the other. When finishing the edge of an odd number of warps, care has to be taken to make sure the edge is even and not sloped to one side, which can be remedied with lots of practice.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CRQwyoH2TaE/Tz00Y4QUqKI/AAAAAAAAAr0/bx0vPkHQEuk/s1600/interweave.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CRQwyoH2TaE/Tz00Y4QUqKI/AAAAAAAAAr0/bx0vPkHQEuk/s1600/interweave.jpg" /></a>Plaited baskets are woven with a flat, square or rectangular basket. Both the spider and plaited baskets have warps and weavers. The weavers go over and under the warps, both when plaiting and twining.<br />
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Take 4 strips of cedar bark cut to 1/4" width. These strips will be your starting warps. When determining the length of these strips, be sure to include 1 or 2 inches extra length on each side of the basket for pulling and tucking. If you wish to make a 3" basket like the one shown in the picture above, measure your warps 3" for one side + 3" for the base + 3" for the other side + 3" for pull and tuck = 12" or a foot. Start by interweaving the centers of these four strips.<br />
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Continuing adding warps, keeping the ends sorta even, the weaving part centered, with the long warps in one direction and the short in the other if you are making a rectangular basket. Weave the warps over and under, making a plain weave pattern. As you weave, keep the warps at right angles, or perpendicular to each other and watch to see that the gaps at the crossovers are square or non-existent.<br />
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If you are using a mold, plastic square, or wooden block, to weave around, place it in the center of your weave and check to see if you have enough warps to evenly cover the base of the block. To keep your base together temporarily, use cloths-pins in the corners to keep your warps from moving around. At this point you can decide whether or not to twine the edge of your basket base with a thin weaver. This will be helpful too in keeping the base from shifting as you work with it, and for decorative appeal.<br />
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After the base is woven, bend the warps which will become the sides of the basket, using a flat ruler on the edge of the basket base, and bending the warps up at a right angle. If your bark is getting a little dry, dampen it with a water spray or dip it a pail of water and soak a minute.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-90BHHagBxyk/TXK3J_LRG8I/AAAAAAAAAGY/wufB36dqUYo/s1600/hpm_0000_0004_0_img0019.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-90BHHagBxyk/TXK3J_LRG8I/AAAAAAAAAGY/wufB36dqUYo/s320/hpm_0000_0004_0_img0019.jpg" width="246" /></a>Since this basket we are making has a even number of warps, you will begin and end a weaver on each row and overlap the ends across 3 or 4 warps. If this basket had an odd number of warps, you could spiral the rows with one long weaver. <br />
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Because this basket has an even number of warps, each row is separate from the previous row. When adding new rows, place the overlaps of the ends of the weavers on different sides of the basket. This will keep the basket strong and avoids bulkiness showing up on one side of the basket. End each row with the weavers ends hidden behind a warp. Every couple of rows or so, stop and awl each row down so that it is snug with the previous row, eliminating any gaps.<br />
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To finish the edge of your basket, tuck all the rows, and cut the ends of the warps if you like to a point or a slant so that they will be easier to weave back into the basket. If you feel the bark getting a little dry, and cracking, soak the basket for a few minutes upside down to wet the rim and warp ends. Tuck the pointed warps back under the first 2 or 3 rows of weavers into the basket using a awl to help lift the rows. Pull the warp down and through, so the the fold is snug against the top weaver row and cut off any excess below the 2 or 3 row. Pull and tuck down all warps evenly to make a nice rim. Optionally a handle can be added using a braided strand.<div><br /></div><div>Video on Ending the basket edge or rim<br /><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/yze5guL4dM4" width="320" youtube-src-id="yze5guL4dM4"></iframe></div><br /><div><br /></div></div>Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-23355630259292225202012-02-08T13:46:00.000-08:002019-01-05T13:12:39.805-08:00How to Weave a "Spider"<br />
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Many times, when I started out weaving, was to learn how to twine. Not sure where to start, I looked for a teacher, and in 2005 I learned how to twine with cedar bark.<br />
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Much later, through demonstrating my artwork, and sharing my weaving methods, the "Spider" has been a teaching aid for beginner weavers who want to learn how to make firm, durable, practical baskets.<br />
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Everything you need to know about weaving or twining a basket, you learn from the "Spider." How to start the beginning weavers and warps, how to twine with two weavers, inserting new warps, and finishing the borders. I recommend making at least 30 or so of these "Spider’s" before the beginner will feel comfortable with the material, its strength, flexibility, and tension.<br />
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Starting a basket base or Spider<br />
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Often the mistake is made by not using enough warps to make the work firm and durable, and unnecessarily lumpy. And a close border cannot be made in a satisfactory manner if the warps are too far apart.<br />
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Start by cutting 7 or 8 pieces of either cedar bark (1/8th inch wide) or split english ivy vines. Overlay 3 warps over 4 warps. Loop your weaver or weft around the 3 warps on the left, with one weaver going under the four warps, and the other weaver going over the 4 warps. Continue with the weaver (over the 4 warps) and go under the 3 warps, with the other weaver, going over the 3 warps. Continue with the over and under to finish the row.<br />
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Care must be taken that the warps are evenly separated by the time the third or fourth row is twined, so that warps come out in a straight line from the center.<br />
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Beginners often find it difficult to make a basket that will stand straight and not tip to one side. No matter how careful one has been to make the bottom flat, it will bulge some in the center. To avoid this, the weavers should not be drawn too tight, as the "spider" or basket base, must be kept flat. Weaving on a table top or cutting board and this can be easily managed. While weaving with the weaver, place the thumb on the center, and pull on weaver tight enough, but not too tight, for an even strong twine.<br />
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After the second row of twining, you can start separating the warps and twine each individually. Careful to keep the warps evenly spaced. If your current row of twining has a gap from the previous row, use an awl or chop stick to press the rows together. Hold onto the warps as you do this.<br />
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It will be necessary to hold down the end of one weaver, to prevent it slipping, until the other weaver is passed over it, which binds the previous weaver firmly into place. Traditionally Haida weavers start on the left and work the weavers to the right. So, your mantra for twining is: taking the weaver on the left, passing it over the warp your holding and under the succeeding warp. Let go of the warp you twined over and hold on the succeeding warp. Repeat the mantra until you are ready for the border and the "Spider" is almost finished.<br />
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If an extremely long weaver is used, it will make a nice small "spider" with any splicing or inserting of weavers. When inserting a weaver, make sure the old weavers overlay the new weavers for 4 or more twinings before being trimmed or cut off or tucked in.<br />
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To add a border to your "spider", make sure the weavers are long enough to complete another row or two of twining. If not insert a new weaver. The warps should be of uniform length. Cutting the ends to a point will help pushing them down between the weavers. Leave the first loop open, until the whole edge is complete. There are many borders to choose from, but for now learning one is enough, and give you a good idea how other borders are finished. Reading is a good resource, and have many creative finishing edges to pick from.<br />
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And now you have a finished "Spider". Making 30 of these is good practice, and will help you remember beginning the base, and adding borders. Twining is the easy part, so in a spider there is less twining, and more learning how to start and end. Spider’s are also useful items when completed, and can be used as coffee mug coasters, small pendants, or two sewn together to form a small pouch, etc... have fun weaving.<br />
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Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-7281235831274415292012-02-07T13:58:00.010-08:002021-01-20T11:05:14.655-08:00How to Braid a Headband<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">braided flag iris leaves</td></tr>
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There are so many ways in which braids can be used, mats, baskets, hats and many more. And there are a wide variety of plants that can be braided, including grasses, like dune grass, bear grass, bark from vines including black berry, flag iris leaves, cattail leaves, tree bark such as cedar, hemlock and the list is endless... why use commercial raffia when the outdoors provides plenty of resources... explore.<br />
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<b>Four Strands -- </b>Beginners often tie the start of the braid to a chair to help with making an even width braid. Take two strands, one in each hand, cross the one in the right hand over to the one in the left near the center, but so that four ends will be uneven. This will stop the necessity of splicing or joining all the strands in the same place.<br />
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Bring the lower left-hand strand in front and cross over the lower right-hand strand. Bring the one that is now the upper left-hand strand down under the lower left-hand strand, and hold these in place with the thumb and fore-finger of the left hand. Now bring the upper right hand strand down over the lower right-hand strand and cross under the lower left hand strand.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">4 strand</td></tr>
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If the following mantra is kept in mind, it will be an easy thing to make the braid even and smooth. "Under with the left, over with right, and cross in the center."<br />
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Eventually as you braid, you will need to insert new strands. Bring the strand that is to be spliced to the lower right-hand place. Insert the new strand beside it, allowing the large end to extend an inch or so under the upper left-hand strand.<br />
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<b>Five strands</b> are the least number with which a satisfactory braid can be made. There is no way of concealing the ends when three strands are used, and it is more difficult to make an even braid.<br />
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In beginning a five strand braid, tie the five strands together at one end. I find it useful to separate three strands in the one hand and two in the other hand. Starting with the right hand that has 3 strands take the outer strand, fold it towards you and weave in across the next strand and under the middle strand, bring it to the left.<br />
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Now the left has three strands and the right has two. Repeat from the left, taking the outer strand and over the next strand, under the middle strand, bringing it to the right.<br />
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Repeat this until you have to join in another strand. Braiding is repetitious, even after joining more strands which allow for a long continuous braid.<br />
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Pull out the bottoms of the strands as you braid to keep them from tangling. It is also useful if braiding long strands to bundle the strands individually and unravel them as you braid to prevent tangling.<br />
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<b>Joining or splicing</b> -- As you continue your work, you will need to insert new strands as the other strands become too short to braid. At first you may not get it right, making the braid too wide. Instead lay the insert on top of the shortened strand and treat it as one piece. After braiding an inch or so, you can cut off the ends sticking out close up to the braid.<br />
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<b>Braiding a Basket</b><br />
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Make a braid about three quarters of an inch wide; coil and sew together as in making a mat, keeping the braid flat for the bottom of the basket, which is two and a half inches in diameter. Shape the sides by holding the braid upward and outward while sewing. Three or four rows complete this basket.<br />
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<b>Braiding a Hat</b><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mxR0hR2qEEQ/TzGhGxk3zLI/AAAAAAAAAqU/pcjy8IRGw0k/s1600/Coiling+a+braid.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="164" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mxR0hR2qEEQ/TzGhGxk3zLI/AAAAAAAAAqU/pcjy8IRGw0k/s200/Coiling+a+braid.jpg" width="200" /></a>Make an even braid about 3/8ths of an inch wide; coil and sew with the edges together. When the measures three inches across begin to shape the sides of the crown. For this the braid must now be held down and a trifle in and drawn tight while sewing. Three or four rows should make the crown sufficiently high. Five or six rows sewed together like the top of the crown makes the flat brim. Finish at the back of the hat by tapering the end, secure it under a braid and sew firmly in place. Trim and decorate the hat with a colored braid or other plant material.<br />
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<b>Step by Step with photos</b><br />
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Here are some photos demonstrating how to braid with cedar bark 1/2" width strips<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen="" class="BLOG_video_class" height="422" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/aLAHYAfzCok" width="508" youtube-src-id="aLAHYAfzCok"></iframe></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-47454974843599448302012-02-07T12:32:00.000-08:002017-05-13T10:02:10.272-07:00Weaving MethodsThere are four basic construction techniques or skills for weaving different items that I use. They are twining, twill or braiding, coiling and knotting. From these four types many designs and shapes can be made.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbG-o7Qq2Uk/TzGAY332E3I/AAAAAAAAApU/p3avOZ_hXoo/s1600/twining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="74" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jbG-o7Qq2Uk/TzGAY332E3I/AAAAAAAAApU/p3avOZ_hXoo/s200/twining.jpg" width="100" /></a></div>
<b>Twining</b> is the earliest known method of weaving. This technique involves two or more weavers or wefts are twined around a warp (over and under) and not necessarily twisted. This technique is also called pairing of two weavers and wailing when three or more weavers are used. The diagram shows the technique starting on the left working over the warps to the right, a traditional Haida technique.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j8iWIjZIH-I/TzGCVao545I/AAAAAAAAApc/5pDd0fadGz4/s1600/plaited+weave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="80" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j8iWIjZIH-I/TzGCVao545I/AAAAAAAAApc/5pDd0fadGz4/s200/plaited+weave.jpg" width="100" /></a></div>
<b>Twill </b>is also referred to as the checkerboard weave or Salish weave. Where warps and wefts when woven together form a checkerboard pattern. The technique also allows for variation in that the weft can be woven over two warps or more, for patterns and designs, and not restricted to the single over and under checkerboard design. Warps can be envisioned as the skeleton of a basket and the weft or weaver as the skin.<br />
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<b>Braiding</b> much like the twill, consists of 3 or more strands (up to 13 or more if you like thick braids), plaited or twilled together. That is each strand is folded crosses over the others to form a flat wide plait of any length. Braids are useful as a substitute for a wide weft on a basket for example or for coiling.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q8P2A8vg5KM/TzGEhTzCrZI/AAAAAAAAApk/nNxEc4uAuU8/s1600/coiling.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="75" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q8P2A8vg5KM/TzGEhTzCrZI/AAAAAAAAApk/nNxEc4uAuU8/s200/coiling.jpg" width="100" /></a></div>
In <b>coiling</b>, a bundle of strands or a twisted strand is stitched together into a spiraling, round or oval form with a thin, flexible weaver. It is a simple straight forward technique, that makes a firm and rigid basket in a relatively short period of time. There are several different types of coiling, including wrapping and the use of braids.<br />
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<b>Knotting</b> and <b>Cordage</b>. Rope or twine is made by twisting two or more strands of fiber in the same direction, which in turn, twists the strands together forming a single strand of twine. These lengths of twined fiber can then be knotted in various ways. Macrame is a common form of knotting.Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-4559116526352286292011-12-27T09:45:00.000-08:002016-02-18T22:17:13.118-08:00Weaving ToolsThere are few tools needed to weave, most of them are relatively inexpensive, and some are already available in the home. The most expensive tool you may have to purchase for weaving with cedar bark, is a leather jerry stripper. Here you will find a list of where to find the tools and some supplies to get you started weaving. When shopping, stay on the look out for forms or molds that you can weave around. I prefer straight walled containers, that are non-metal (as metal stains cedar bark), but all containers including bottles can be woven around.<br />
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If you need someone to help you get these items feel free to email me and we can work something out via Canada Post, etc. I would be most happy to help you get you your own set of weaving tools.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zaxZiYc-WeU/TvoDK5t7fCI/AAAAAAAAAik/mrTXWPh-2rs/s1600/jstripper.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zaxZiYc-WeU/TvoDK5t7fCI/AAAAAAAAAik/mrTXWPh-2rs/s320/jstripper.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leather Jerry Stripper</td></tr>
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<b>Lonsdale Leather Factory</b><br />
Ottawa & 5th, Vancouver<br />
<a href="http://www.indigoleather.com/">www.indigoleather.com</a><br />
- leather jerry stripper<br />
- jerry stripper blades<br />
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<b>Gourmet Warehouse</b><br />
Clark & Hastings, Vancouver<br />
- sure sharp knife sharpener<br />
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<b>Dressew</b><br />
Hastings & Homer, Vancouver<br />
- sharp scissors<br />
- leather needles<br />
- mattress needles<br />
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<b>Michaels Arts & Crafts</b><br />
Broadway & Heather, Vancouver<br />
- round pencil boxes (as basket forms)<br />
- plastic squares (as basket forms)<br />
- RIX fabric dye<br />
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<b>Dollar Store</b><br />
Pender & Main, Vancouver<br />
- plastic cases (as basket forms)<br />
- utility knifes<br />
- hatchet or small axe (harvesting)<br />
- measuring tape<br />
- water squirt bottles<br />
- clothes pins<br />
- clamps<br />
- Tintex Fabric Dye<br />
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<b>Maiwa Handprints</b><br />
<a href="http://www.maiwa.com/">www.maiwa.com</a><br />
- Alum powder<br />
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<br />Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-59849550781873674782011-12-24T15:17:00.000-08:002013-02-14T18:58:31.805-08:00Weaving with English IvyTo keep you from guessing about what to do with English Ivy, here are a few pictures to get you interested.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wall covered with English Ivy</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Spider" weave or start of a small basket</td></tr>
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English Ivy (Hedera helix) is an invasive plant here in Vancouver parks and its usefulness has been underestimated by the fact that it is a weed that spreads quickly and overcrowds indigenous vegetation.<br />
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Harvesting English Ivy for weaving can be done essentially at anytime of the year. Bundle vines or coil up after removing soil, leaves and small roots and twigs. Store in a cool dry place until your ready to start processing the material for weaving. </div>
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Processing the English Ivy for weaving can be a tedious process, but rewarding. The process is similar to the cleaning of spruce roots or cedar roots. Before you start to clean off the outer bark of the bundles of roots or vines, soak them in a tub of water overnight, then the next day drain the water and you can start cleaning the bundles.<br />
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Use a knife to clean off the outer bark leaving a nice white material like shown in the Spider weave picture on the right. Bundle or coil these cleaned vines and arrange such that they dry before storing or starting your weaving project.<br />
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Once you have a small bucket full of cleaned vines, you can start the spider weave. Soak the vines overnight in cold water or use boiling water and a small cooking pot to soften the vines. Making spider’s is an exercise that can be a long learning process, but well worth the effort in learning the skill. You may have to make at least 30 of these "Spiders" before you feel that you understand the material, technique and patience. These finished spiders can be also used as decoration, ie a pendant or talisman even an earring. Essentially making the spider teaches the weaver how to start a basket, twine the body, and finishing touches. Twining is relatively easy, but often beginning and ending a basket can be hard to remember, thus making 30 spiders helps engrain the process in your mind and fingers.<br />
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The last picture here shows a finished English Ivy basket, with 3 different colors. Two are the result of a commercial dye, green and red. Without a presoak in a bath of Alum, the colors turned out a little pastel like. The red appearing more orange.<br />
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Method for dying English Ivy. Presoak cleaned material in a bath of Alum water. Use a canning jar, and place in 1 Tablespoon Alum, and the material you wish to color. Top up canning jar with boiling hot water and let stand covered overnight or several days. In another canning jar, place about 2 tablespoons of color fabric dye and 1 tablespoon of Alum. Take out the material that was soaking in the Alum bath, and put into the new canning jar. This will become the dye bath. Top up the dye bath jar with boiling hot water and let stand overnight in a warm location covered or for several days. Remove material from dye bath, and rinse under cold water. Lightly dry by damping with paper or cloth towel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WYubfsxzg88/TvZEyyv964I/AAAAAAAAAho/9uC24tdTOLE/s1600/DSC01513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WYubfsxzg88/TvZEyyv964I/AAAAAAAAAho/9uC24tdTOLE/s320/DSC01513.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished basket</td></tr>
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Tools and Supplies for weaving with English Ivy are few and inexpensive. When harvesting a good pair of garden gloves are handy to keep your hands scratch free. A small knife or utility blade for cleaning the bark off the vines. A bucket or two large enough to soak the vines in. Boiling water from a kettle or hot water faucet is good for softening the vines prior to weaving. A sharp pair of scissors for trimming and cutting the vine as you weave with it. and Some clothes pins to hold your weaving together throughout the project. To dye the ivy vines different colors you will need a couple of wide mouth canning jars, tongs, plastic gloves, tintex or dyx fabric dye, alum powder (from the spice rack at supermarket, used in pickling too, but cheaper from a craft store).<br />
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Weaving links and Basket ideas<br />
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You can buy processed basketry materials from various sources. But for practicing, nothing is easier to obtain than our persistent pest, invasive English ivy. . .<br />
<a href="http://www.ernieanderica.info/ivybaskets">http://www.ernieanderica.info/ivybaskets</a></div>
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English Ivy; its invasive behavior has given it a bad rap. A while ago I started to feel empathy for the plant and wonder what kind of relationship I could begin to have with the plant, other . . .</div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanscout.org/english-ivy-bike-basket/">http://www.urbanscout.org/english-ivy-bike-basket/</a></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanscout.org/english-ivy-basket-2/">http://www.urbanscout.org/english-ivy-basket-2/</a></div>
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Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-45436475067471641422011-10-29T11:09:00.000-07:002011-10-29T11:09:38.669-07:00Step by Step Photo Instructions<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-msgd248zscw/Tib8cn8GXlI/AAAAAAAAAPc/wf1lNZfYB8c/s1600/DSC01035.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-msgd248zscw/Tib8cn8GXlI/AAAAAAAAAPc/wf1lNZfYB8c/s320/DSC01035.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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</div>Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-10017599617584928682011-10-21T17:44:00.000-07:002013-08-26T14:42:06.634-07:00Haida Hat Care & Sizing tipsHow to take care of your cedar bark Haida Hats.<br />
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The proper care and handling of your cedar bark, your hat or basket will give it a long life. If handled improperly your bark may crack or loose its shape.<br />
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Store hats in hatbox, on a hook, or on the top shelf of your closet. Make sure you stuff the crown with tissue paper or set them on a head form, this will ensure your hat retains its original shape. Also make sure your hat is dry when storing it. Dry it out thoroughly and never place in a plastic bag, wet, as it may mould and dye the bark black.<br />
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Watch out for too much sun... it will dry out your hat and cause it to break.<br />
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To clean your hat, use a mild detergent and warm water. Wipe the hat quickly, then use a dry cloth to press it dry.<br />
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Collecting vintage hats? Take care - hair oils, moisture in the air and handling can damage the hat. True collectors never wear their vintage hats.<br />
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Clean hats with a soft brush. Hard bristles will damage the surface. Dust it every week at least so that the dust does not permanently damage the hat. You can also use a damp towel with a slight nap to dust you hat. Use a quick circular counterclockwise motion.<br />
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Remember too...<br />
Avoid extreme temperature and humidity changes.<br />
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Keep out of direct sunlight--the darker, the better.<br />
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Keep dust free, either in a case or by gentle vacuuming through a mesh material.<br />
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Handle carefully and Enjoy!<br />
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<b>Quick Hat Tips</b><br />
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Always pick up your hat by the brim - never handle your hat by the crown. When placing your hat on your head, adjust it by gently tugging on the front and back of the brim.<br />
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Want to keep your hat in good shape? Wear it! Your hat belongs on your head. But, should you remove it, take care not to set it on its brim.<br />
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Beware of excess heat. The back window of your car on a hot summer day is the perfect place to ruin your hat.<br />
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Can't avoid a downpour? Gently remove your hat and let the hat air dry. If the hat is drenched, consider blotting it with a soft towel - but do not handle it excessively.<br />
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Whether you wear your hat regularly or not, gently wipe it with a damp sponge once a week to remove the dust.<br />
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<b>Hat Size</b><br />
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To save you some searching time here is a quick guide to sizing your hat's head band when ordering a custom sized Haida Hat.<br />
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How to determine your Head Size for a hat or headband<br />
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Hat head band size is based on the circumference of the head. In order to determine the proper hat size, you must take a measurement of your head.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><br />
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1. Measure circumference of head usually about 3/4" above ear Valley, where hat is worn. Using a tape measure, or a piece of string, measure your head about one-half inch above your eyebrows where your hat will rest. Be certain that the tape measure is straight, not twisted. If you are not certain about size, or are between sizes, buy the larger size.<br />
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2. Measure tight to 1/4" for accuracy.<br />
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X Small = 21 inches<br />
Small = 21 1/2 inches<br />
Medium = 22 1/2 inches<br />
Large = 23 3/4 inches<br />
X Large = 24 1/2 inches<br />
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For hats that are round, like the stove pipe top hat, and similar styles, can also be measured by the diameter of the hat. So<br />
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6 3/4 inch Diameter = 21 1/2 inch Circumference or size Small<br />
7 inch D. = 22" inch C. or size Medium<br />
7.5 inch = 23 1/2 inch or size Large<br />
8 inch = 25" inch or size Xtra Large<br />
<br />Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-32767667930850144912011-10-21T08:21:00.000-07:002013-02-14T18:59:53.347-08:00Anatomy of a Haida HatThe makings of the finest traditional and contemporary Haida Hats.<br />
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<b>The Crown</b><br />
To a hatter, this is the crowning showpiece. On the top and side are the creases or indentations and their varieties are almost limitless.<br />
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<b>The Cedar Bark</b><br />
Choose from Western Red Cedar, or Yellow Cedar Bark. We carefully, sustainably harvest the bark during the best time of the year, around last week of May to the first week of July. Red Cedar bark gives the hat a "memory" to keep its shape in all kinds of weather.<br />
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<b>The Brim</b><br />
As with the crown, the variety of brim styles, make your hat unique.<br />
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If the brim is less than 2", it's called a stingy, and was popular in the 60's. A 2" brim or less is the fedora hat that Frank Sinatra is known for. A 2.5" brim is the most common in the 40s, like the one Bogart wore. If you're getting a 3" brim, that's huge, and is more like a zoot suit type fedora hat.<br />
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<b>The Brim Edge</b><br />
Traditionally there are about 12 different finishing edges that can be used on a hat. Most hats you find that we make will have the three strand braided finished edge.<br />
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Beaver Cedar Dance Hat</div>
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Cedar Bark Acrylic Paint </div>
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Hat woven by Todd DeVries</div>
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Design by Mike Dangeli </div>
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<b>The Hatband</b><br />
Hatbands fit around the "vamp" of the hat and are made from braided cedar bark. Most hats don't have hatbands, but can be added for decoration.<br />
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<b>The Chin Straps</b><br />
Generally not necessary in most style of hats, this accessory is useful on windy days, or even dancing. Made from leather, or cedar bark rope.<br />
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<b>The Head band</b><br />
Ours is made of Red Cedar bark for strength, made with 5 pieces of 1/4" strands of bark braided together and fits inside traditional Haida hats.<br />
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<b>The Fit</b><br />
If you can give us an accurate measurement of your head circumference (about 1/4" above your ears), we can incorporate that as we build your hat in order for us to make it comfortable. The BEST bet, of course, is to give us a call or meet up to make a perfect custom fit.<br />
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<br />Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-56969113368337692662011-09-26T21:02:00.000-07:002013-02-14T19:00:24.487-08:00Spruce Root Gathering Pictures<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the beach - spruce trees on sand dunes</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Close up of sand eroding, exposing the spruce trees roots</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">gathering spruce roots</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep roots wet until you are ready to strip the bark off</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xqifSu3Zjw0/ToE-ax1z_pI/AAAAAAAAARs/iDD-gcoAEfg/s1600/DSC01414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xqifSu3Zjw0/ToE-ax1z_pI/AAAAAAAAARs/iDD-gcoAEfg/s400/DSC01414.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use fire to warm up the spruce root bark until it steams</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nh4oTJmF_Qs/ToE8nvBGO1I/AAAAAAAAARc/_cP-LIrN2k0/s1600/DSC01370.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nh4oTJmF_Qs/ToE8nvBGO1I/AAAAAAAAARc/_cP-LIrN2k0/s400/DSC01370.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use stick or knee to scrape off warm bark from spruce root</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">When bark cools, re-warm in fire to continue stripping off bark</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A day's hard work, cleaning spruce roots</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bite end of spruce root to begin splitting it</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Separate split - the root should split naturally with little guidance</td></tr>
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Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-84767013395139176682011-09-24T01:02:00.000-07:002013-02-14T19:00:45.788-08:00Plant Materials and Natural dyes<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Harvesting Black Berry Vine Skin</td></tr>
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There are a whole variety of plants which can be used to make plant dyes. Since learning how to dye with black berries and oregon grape roots, I have started experimenting using different plants and materials to dye with. I have tried dying natural materials such as black berry vine skin, with the oregon grape roots producing a yellow color. Dying the black berry vine skin with the black berry fruit, produced a strong dark burgundy color. The red alder tree, the bark and wood were traditionally used to dye cedar bark red.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ripe Black Berries</td></tr>
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To dye cedar bark black, soak the cedar bark in an iron mordant. To make an iron mordant quickly, for example, boil 1.25 liters of water with 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup of rusty nails or rusty steal wool for one hour. Leave it to stand for 24 hours and then pour off the water into bottles. This water is the iron mordant. Soak cedar bark in iron mordant until black. Using canning jars, add bark to canning jar, pour over boiling water, add rusty steel wool, pour over more boiling water. Let cool, cover and set in sun or near heat source, like wood stove, fire place, or block heater for 2-3 days, shaking jar once in a while.<br />
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Often equal amounts of the plant materials containing the color are needed to produce these dyes. Dying natural fibers such as cedar bark (a dark color), dune grass (a light blond color), black berry vine skin (a light color) all need a mordant for fixing the plant dye so the color does bleed when it gets wet. I am experimenting with dying spruce roots different colors too and will share those pics in future posts.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">5 strand Iris leaf braid</td></tr>
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<b>Washing</b><br />
All plant fibers that you are going to dye, should be clean. If time permits, wash the plant fibers with washing soda. Boiling for an hour and leaving it soak for a while before using. Not all fibers require this, but experiment. Wool should be cleaned, as well as dog-hair, and then soaked in a mordant and dye mixture.<br />
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<b>Mordanting</b><br />
Alum Mordant prepares the plant fibers to help them absorb the dye better. Potassium Aluminum Sulphate is sold in spice racks at your local super market as Alum. It is also found in fermented urine, which was the traditional method of mordanting material in the old days. Interesting to note if you search the internet, that two mordants are often mixed together to optimize results. The most common mordants I know include iron, tannin, ammonia and alum mordants. Salt, vinegar and wood ashes can also be tried as mordants. Alum mordant usually gives the best results, as it is cheap, very reliable and gives bright colors. Ammonia eats material, and iron mordants less so, but ammonia should be used sparingly or not at all.<br />
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Tannin powder can be purchased at wine kit making stores, but you can also use tea. Orange Pekoe Tea contains also contains tannin. Presoak your fiber in the tannin mordant before soaking in the plant dye mixture.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5URFTT5HMCQ/Tn2PaNLhF4I/AAAAAAAAAQ8/YpPdWCR1r-4/s1600/DSC01302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="112" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5URFTT5HMCQ/Tn2PaNLhF4I/AAAAAAAAAQ8/YpPdWCR1r-4/s200/DSC01302.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">dune grass, aka sea or beach grass</td></tr>
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<b>Plant dying materials</b><br />
Collect the flowers, berries, roots, bark or whatever you plan to use to extract color from. About equal amount of plant dying materials to fiber that you are dying. Cut up roots, bark, flowers, etc into smaller pieces and place into canning jar filling it about 1/2 way. Pour over boiling water covering all of the plant dying material. This canning jar is now filled with the plant dye mixture.<br />
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<b>Fibers</b><br />
Natural fibers are not often commerically dyed and therefore rarely available. But preserving the knowledge in using natural dyes and fibers help future generations when commercial methods may fail or markets become too expensive. Fibers that I am experiementing with are dune grass, black berry vine skin, iris leaves, cedar bark, and spruce roots. In the future they may be more fibers that I want to dye different colours.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Z_szART6fs/Tn2OOFL1QEI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/K4JICIeT15A/s1600/mop-007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Z_szART6fs/Tn2OOFL1QEI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/K4JICIeT15A/s200/mop-007.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cedar bark</td></tr>
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<b>Experiment</b><br />
Each time you dye some fibers and discover a new plant dye, keep careful journals of everything you do. If you have a digital camera. Takes pictures of every step that you are taking from harvest, cleaning and storing your material and plant dyes. Experiment using different mordants, or soaking the fibers in the mordant first before dying in the plant dye, or mixing the mordant and plant dye together in a canning jar with the fiber. Find out what works best with the materials you have available.<br />
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<b>Plant dyes</b><br />
<i>Red</i> - cedar bark, Red alder bark, alum mordant<br />
<i>Burgundy</i>, Black berry fruit, alum mordant<br />
<i>Yellow</i> - Oregon Grape Root, alum mordant<br />
<i>Black</i> - cedar bark, Iron mordant<br />
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Once you have worked out how to make some colorful plant dyes, there is no need to stop experimenting some more. I can find many suggestions on which plants are good for which colors, however, each land has it own plants which can be used to make dyes. Asking elders, or researching weaving and basketry columns, blogs, articles, even field guide books on identifying species are most helpful. Remember Experiment and try out different plant materials for different colors and note how dye colors look on different fibers.Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-39581510063350252142011-07-17T10:56:00.000-07:002016-03-17T17:37:14.661-07:00How to Make Cedar Bark Bracelets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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People love to learn how to weave with cedar bark. Making a cedar bark bracelet combines the activity of creating something fun, and showing off their creation.<br />
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Making a cedar bark bracelet helps people learn how to handle bark as they weave it, the importance of keeping the bark wet and the value of cedar bark as it was to the Northwest Coast peoples.<br />
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Weaving is one of the most ancient and traditional form of Northwest Coast indianuity. Cedar bark is a very versatile fiber that provides a creative medium to form baskets, mats, hats, jewelry, clothing, place mats, flowers, and rope to name a few.<br />
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<b>Objective:</b><br />
This project is a practical introduction to cedar bark weaving for anyone with no weaving experience. Participants will also be able to understand the basic vocabulary of weaving.<br />
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• Weaving — The process of forming a basket or in this project a bracelet by interlacing strands of bark, by a technique called plaiting.<br />
• Warp — Strands running lengthwise. The warp is cut prior to beginning the weaving process.<br />
• Weft — a strand that is weaved through the warp strands.<br />
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<b>Difficulty Level:</b> Easy<br />
<b>Approximate Workshop Time Period:</b> 90 - 120 minutes a period.<br />
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<b>Things You'll Need:</b><br />
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<b>Included with the cedar bark bracelet weaving workshop you will find:</b><br />
sharp scissors,<br />
paper clip or clothes pins,<br />
1 - 24" x 1" strip of cedar bark,<br />
1 - 84" x 1/4" strip of cedar bark (7 feet long),<br />
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Black markers,</div>
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Tape Rulers,</div>
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Towels, and</div>
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a plastic bucket of water.</div>
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<b>Instructions:</b><br />
Soak your bark in a bucket of plain water for at least 10-15 minutes.<br />
Towel dry.<br />
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Measure from one end of the 1" strip and make a mark with a permanent pen or marker the 8", 8 1/2", and 9" positions.<br />
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<b>Pick a size</b>, 8, 8 1/2 or 9 inches and roll the end over to form a circle, lining up with one of the marks.<br />
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Clip with a paperclip or clothes pin after cutting the tails.<br />
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Cut the width of the remaining length into four tails (or warps). Start at the other end, careful not to cut the core, cut the length up to the mark in half, and then cut those two lengths again in half. You will have made four tails by three cuts.<br />
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The 1" cedar bark strip should now resemble a fiddle head.<br />
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<b>To start weaving in the 1/4" cedar bark strip. </b><br />
Place one end of the 1/4" strip between the tails and circle of the bark, also called the shed, leaving about a 1/2" sticking out. The shed is the space, not in the inside and not outside, between the warps and the core.<br />
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Weave the bundle of cedar bark through the circle and tighten.<br />
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Now lift the second and fourth tail (properly called a warp) and weave the strip through. This is called a checker board weave.<br />
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Fold the bark over the edge of the circle and through the circle on to the next row.<br />
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Now lift the 1st and 3rd warp and weave the strip through.<br />
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Continue, alternating over and under for each row. If the previous weft strand went under the warp strand the following row will begin by going over the warp.<br />
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When the end is reached, take the needle and thread the 1/4" strip into it, and pull the strip between the bark beside the beginning strip that is sticking out.<br />
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Trim of the beginning and end of the 1/4" strip after tightening.<br />
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Weave the ends of the four tails back into the 1st and 2nd rows.<br />
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Trim tails.<br />
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optional: Thread a button and sew onto bracelet. Use lots of thread, then knot and cut excess thread off.<br />
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Place on your wrist and admire your hand woven cedar bark bracelet.<br />
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This how-to-instruction is also posted on my website with photos of each step.<br />
<a href="http://ithkilgaa.blogspot.com/2011/10/step-by-step-photo-instructions.html">http://ithkilgaa.blogspot.com/2011/10/step-by-step-photo-instructions.html</a><br />
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<b>Extended Lesson</b><br />
This project can be expanded to challenge the creativity of the participants by using colored bark, or by making the weft and warp threads thinner and the designs more detailed. The over-under sequence from row to row can be altered from every other warp to every second or even third warp to form regular patterns.Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1296580759561928082.post-62782964329039889692011-05-26T09:27:00.000-07:002016-11-16T11:09:53.144-08:00Weaving Stories<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;">Beaver Cedar Dance Hat</span></div>
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Collection of Mike Dangeli</div>
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Some Haida people feel that plastic-wares are replacing, centuries-old traditions of making cedar bark articles.<br />
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Using a jerry stripper, <u>G</u>iihlgiigaa cuts a pre-soaked strip of bark into even widths of various lengths. Next, using nothing but his bare hands, starts weaving the strands of bark and slowly starts taking on the shape of a small basket. "I have been doing this for several years, and it’s sort of an obsession," he says. <br />
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The Haida had been making useful products from cedar bark for daily use since time immemorial until recently. Haida Gwaii is home to the Haida people, just off the west coast of Canada, south of Alaska. In Old Massett, there is a gallery, where people come to purchase hats, baskets, and other pieces of art. Most of the hats and baskets are made from red or yellow cedar bark that is harvested on the islands. Red cedar bark is very sturdy and when woven, make strong long lasting storage containers, like a laundry basket and decorative/fashion pieces like hats.<br />
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<u>G</u>iihlgiigaa displays his art at various galleries and museum gift shops, as well as a small restaurant. There are about 200-300 artists on Haida Gwaii and probably about %10 are weavers. In addition to baskets, and hats, many weavers also create traditional regalia, such as vests, skirts, aprons, roses, headbands, bracelets and so on. The headbands can vary in width and detail, ranging in price from $20 for a plain thin headband to a 2" wide headband with fur, shell buttons and design for over $200. The later headbands can take up to a couple of weeks to make. Despite changing times, cedar bark is still a good seller, perhaps because it is so strong. Another reason is the aesthetic value, the smell of cedar. Most of the hats sell anywhere from $300 - $2,000 depending on the materials used and way it was made. A normal or contemporary hat costs around $600. A traditional Haida hat, painted would could about $2000 or more depending on the availability of an artist.<br />
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But, perhaps weaving has not lost its place, seemingly being replaced by plastic-wares. Cedar weaving, weaving in general is a rare hand craft art that was dying because of the lack of sales in the local and world-wide market. "We would really love to teach this to other people and get them involved in making cedar bark articles. Learning how to transform your environment through doing and education, help foster sustainability and a sense of accomplishment." Weaving is an art form that should be shared with all weavers, as has been done for thousands of years! Even if you’re not a weaver, you can help support a weaver by visiting their art shows at craft fairs, galleries, websites and so on.<br />
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by <u>G</u>iihlgiigaa (Todd DeVries)<br />
<a href="https://ithkilgaa.blogspot.ca/">https://ithkilgaa.blogspot.ca</a>Giihlgiigaa Tsiit Git’annehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09317852897933627242noreply@blogger.com